I’m no sock expert, in fact it’s less than a year since I knitted my first pair, and that was done under the guidance of a lovely Latvian lady who didn’t speak a word of English! So how hard can it be … hahahaha! Honestly though, once you have the basic concept of working in the round, and understand the general principles of heel and toe construction you are pretty much sorted. So while visiting my dear friend Cassie over the new year holidays I designed her a pair of patterned socks. She has rather large (Hobbit, her descriptor, not mine!) feet, so the first pair I made was quite wide and large. I was worried that ~360m of wool wouldn’t be enough and I didn’t have a second skein. So I worked the tops and toes in a contrast colour. It turns out I would only just have missed it with one skein of Cowgirlblues Merino Twist multi-coloured yarn. But the contrast is quite fun and a bit cheeky, and she loved them! So here comes the knitting pattern for Cassie’s Socks!
The lacy patterning will keep you on your toes (hahaha) while knitting, and a row counter might be useful. But the rest is straightforward sock knitting. I used the magic loop method, but double-pointed needles will work just the same. Don’t try this as your first pair of socks!!!
Merino Twist Yarn
1 x 100g Cowgirlblues Merino Twist wool multi-colour … (you’ll need a teensy bit more than this for the largest size. So if you’re doing those then only knit 10 rounds of the rib)
And 1 x 50g Solid if you’re knitting two-tone socks
3mm 100cm circular needles
A row counter may prove useful to keep track of the pattern, it’s quite difficult to go back or undo if you make a mistake
Confession time … I haven’t actually worked up the socks in all 3 sizes, I’ve just scaled the stitches, so a little guesswork is involved here. And the measurements are an estimate only.
L: fits calf ~32cm
M: fits calf ~27cm
S: fits calf ~21cm
The lace pattern is worked over a multiple of 12 stitches, so any multiple of 12st will work.
The foot length of 2x lace repeats and the toe comes to ~27cm. Adjust the length by knitting fewer or more rows, and don’t worry about not finishing at the beginning or end of the lace repeat, it’s quite forgiving.
26 stitches and 35 rows to 10x10cm in stocking stitch
K: knit P: purl
YO: yarn over K2tog: knit the next two stitches together
SSK: slip the next two stitches knitwise, slip them back to the left needle and K2tog through back of loop
If you are knitting all in one colour then please ignore my references to Colour A and B and just do your thing.
In Colour A cast on 72 (60, 48) stitches using the longtail cast on method.
These socks are knit using the magic loop method, so split your stitches to 36 (30, 24) per needle then work 20 rounds in K1P1 rib.
Change to Colour B and work in lace pattern for two repeats of the 24 row pattern. I recommend placing a stitch marker after each 12 stitches so you can easily pick up if you’ve made a mistake.
Extra note if you’re working with 60 stitches
You’ll find it easiest to adjust your stitches to have 36 on the first needle and 24 on the other, to make the 12 stitch repeat easier to manage. Please pay attention to the preparation for the heel flap also.
This is worked over 12 stitches and repeats to the end of the round, except when knitting the foot where you’ll only work the top of the foot in the lace repeat.
The right side of your work is the “knit” side of the stocking stitch areas.
Round 1: YO, K1, YO, P2, K2, K2tog, K3, P2
Round 2: K3, P2, K6, P2
Round 3: K1, (YO, K1) twice, P2, K2, K2tog, K2, P2
Round 4: K5, P2, K5, P2
Round 5: K2, YO, K1, YO, K2, P2, K2, K2tog, K1, P2
Round 6: K7, P2, K4, P2
Round 7: K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, P2, K2, K2tog, P2
Round 8: K9, P2, K3, P2
Round 9: K2, K2tog, K5, P2, K1, K2tog, P2
Round 10: K8, P2, K2, P2
Round 11: K2, K2tog, K4, P2, K2tog, P2
Round 12: K7, P2, K1, P2
Round 13: K2, K2tog, K3, P2, YO, K1, YO, P2
Round 14: K6, P2, K3, P2
Round 15: K2, K2tog, K2, P2, (K1,YO) twice, K1, P2
Round 16: K5, P2, K5, P2
Round 17: K2, K2tog, K1, P2, K2, YO, K1, YO, K2, P2
Round 18: K4, P2, K7, P2
Round 19: K2, K2tog, P2, K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, P2
Round 20: K3, P2, K9, P2
Round 21: K1, K2tog, P2, K2, K2tog, K5, P2
Round 22: K2, P2, K8, P2
Round 23: K2tog, P2, K2, K2tog, K4, P2
Round 24: K1, P2, K7, P2
Working the heel flap
Divide your stitches into two equal groups of 36 (30, 24) stitches, and work the entire heel flap over one half of the stitches, work back and forth instead of round and round.
RS Row 1: (Slip 1, Knit 1), repeat to end
WS Row 2: Slip 1, purl to end
Continue repeating these two rows until you have worked 36 (30, 24) rows
Extra note if you’re working with 60 stitches
30 stitches breaks up the 12 stitch repeat. When dividing your stitches – slip the first and last 3 stitches from the 36 st needle onto the 24st needle so you have 30 stitches on each. Place stitch markers to keep these 3 stitches separate from the other 24 as you’ll need to work them differently when you get to the foot.
Shaping the heel
On a RS row: Slip 1, K19 (16,13), slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn
On the WS row work back: Sl 1, P5, p2tog, P1, turn
RS: Sl1, knit 6 (1 stitch before the “gap”), slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn
Repeat these last two rows, decreasing the number of knit or purl stitches by 1 each time, until you’ve worked to the last stitch on both needles, and ending on a purl row, then knit back.
Pick up one stitch for every slip stitch down the side of the heel flap (should be 18,15,12 stitches )
On the other needle working across your 36 (30, 24) stitches in the first row of the lace pattern,
(If you have 30 stitches knit the first and last 3st and work the middle 24 in two repeats of the lace pattern)
Pick up the stitches on the other side of the heel flap (should be 18,15,12 stitches ). [I put all these stitches onto my “heel” needle as I find it easier to work the heel gusset stitches all on the same needle.
Knit across the heel flap stitches to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
On the other needle work across in pattern
On the heel needle work as follows: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1
Continue working around in this fashion until you are left with 36 (30, 24) stitches on each needle, ie your original number of stitches.
Please note, on your last round you will only do the first decrease on the heel needle because you started working the decreases with only one decrease on the first round.
Working the foot
Once you’re back to the full number of stitches continue working the sock foot.
Knit the stitches on the heel needle and continue working the other stitches in the lace pattern until you reach the desired foot length. On my feet this was two repeats of the lace pattern.
Interrupt the lace pattern when you’ve reached the foot length you want.
Working the toe
Assuming you are working with the magic loop, start on the “pattern” needle
Round1 first needle: K1, K2togtbl, K to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1,
Second needle: K1, K2togtbl, K to last 3 st, K2tog, K
Round 2: Knit both needles
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 18 (15, 12) stitches remain on each needle or 36(30, 24) stitches in total.
Continue repeating Round 1 until 12 (9, 6) stitches remain on each needle.
For a wider toe do fewer repeats, for a narrower pointy toe do more.
Use Kitchener stitch to graft the toe closed
Hold both needles together and work across in K2tog taking one stitch from the front needle and one from the back each time.
When you have two stitches on the needle cast off.
Keep working in this fashion until you have closed the toe.
Cut your yarn and pull it through the last stitch.
Weave in your ends, handwash gently and dry flat, shaping as required.